CaptureFix Pro for Pentax 645z

Since introducing CaptureFix for the Pentax 645z in 2014, my tool is being used by professionals around the world to get 645Z DNG files into CaptureOne. While Lightroom offers the ability to process files without change, it has a far less sophisticated RAW processing engine, and is overall much slower when handling files. Quite frankly, there is no comparison, so if you are used to working with CaptureOne, or if you want to make sure to get the best skin tones and overall control over your images, there really isn’t any other solution out there. This is where CaptureFix comes in: it enables seamless hot folder tethering or batch import. I am happy to announce CaptureFix Pro, which improves on the older version by adding streamlined settings, faster processing, and the ability to store previously selected paths for its input and output folders. The idea behind this is that once configured, all you have to do is click start and have your files processed.

If you have already subscribed to my newsletter recently, and have been receiving updates vial email, there is nothing you have to do in order to be able to get invited to the pro version. You will automatically receive an email with detailed information on what’s new, and how to download.

If you have not yet signed up, please do so and get the latest version of CaptureFix for free, as well as tips on how to get the most out of your camera. You will be automatically sent an email with details about CaptureFix Pro, and if you continue to remain subscribed, will receive free valuable tips about CaptureOne usage, and future update information.

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CaptureFix Pro for Pentax 645z

The MTL-900 PRO Lightsaber

MTL-900 PRO

It might look like a Lightsaber (not really), but it certainly is a great LED light with many uses for Still and Motion Photography. I take a look at PERGEAR MTL-900 PRO and its functions on the video below:

httpv://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gNtG-F_byc4

I like how the light uses LED bulbs only on one side, enabling one to feather and direct the output. I also think that being able to remotely control the output can be useful, although as this uses infrared I found it to be difficult to use, particularly if the light is obstructed or the environment is generally well lit (outdoors for example). The digital intensity control works well, and enables gradual enough adjustments, although it would have been even better if the LED bank could be controlled by rows or columns, which would obviously allow for even more gradual adjustments, and control of direction.

If you have ever used the Icelight before (especially the first version), you will appreciate the ability to use exchangeable batteries on the MTL-900 PRO. Not only can you charge one battery while using the other (two batteries and one charger are included), but you can also power the light with the included AC-adapter, giving you even more ways to continuously use it almost anywhere.

For less than $150, this is an amazingly versatile tool that will help you to fill-in shadows, add effects, mimic practical light, and even serve as a key light. You can order yours directly from www.linkdelight.com

The MTL-900 PRO Lightsaber

Converting a Pentax 50mm Lens for Cine Use

De-click Pentax lenses

If you have ever wondered why cine lenses are so expensive, well, then this post won’t answer that question (more complex configuration, better built, etc.). This post is actually to show how easy it is to convert a manual vintage lens for cine use by adding cinegears and de-clicking the aperture. These vintage lenses can be had from Pentax or any other manufacturer, and the process of de-clicking is similar on all of them. What makes this a great value proposition is that these lenses often offer great image quality, but can be had for around $100 (some are more, some are less). Is this ideal? No, cine lenses are much better to work with, especially if you have the budget to own or rent them, but if you don’t, converting older manual lenses for cine use is the next best thing, and it is very affordable.

Converting a Pentax 50mm Lens for Cine Use

Watch this video on YouTube.

Converting a Pentax 50mm Lens for Cine Use

Make Your Own TetherBoost

Shooting Tethered

It probably hasn’t escaped your attention, but a few days ago a new “gadget” called tetherboost was introduced. The claims are that this device will provide power to your connected camera when tethering, thus reducing the power requirements for your computer and your camera. The result should be longer battery life when tethered, and a more stable and presumably faster connection. So what is this thing then?

Well, it is nothing more than a powered usb 3.0 hub with a power bank attached to it (or AC if you work in a studio). Instead of paying well over $100 for an entire thetherbooster set, you can make your own. I have been using a similar setup for years now, and if anything, it reduces the power requirements on both the laptop and the camera. You are therefore not eating through batteries as quickly, especially when you are shooting on location. My setup has a few advantages:

• it is more affordable than the tetherbooster


• it adds a flashlight, so makes it more versatile on location


• items are readily available on amazon, so if you break them, you can easily replace them


• the battery pack has higher power outputs, thus allowing you to tether longer, as well as charge your phone or other devices via a secondary high power (2.1A) usb port.


• The battery pack also has twice the rated capacity of the other solution

Let’s Make Our TetherBooster

You can substitute with whatever else you feel is working for you, however, the items I list below are those that work for me with both usb 3.0 and usb 2.0 tethered connections:

1. USB 3.0 portable powered hub (includes AC adapter) on AMAZON


2. USB POWER BANK with LED and 2 outputs (10000 mAh) on AMAZON


3. USB to DC cable (connects the hub to the power bank) on AMAZON

As of this writing, you will spend less than $40 on all of these. All you really have to do is to connect the USB hub to your computer (with the cable that comes with the hub), connect your camera via USB to the hub, and make sure that you either power the hub with the AC adapter, or your power bank. Use the 1A connector on the power bank and leave the 2.1A output for your tablet or other devices (in case you need a charge on location). That’s it. You just made yourself a tether booster for less than half the cost of the other solution, while also getting a better power bank (with built-in flashlight and 10,000 mAh rated capacity).

Make Your Own TetherBoost

645Z CaptureFix and Color Profiles

If you haven’t tried CaptureFix yet to get your Pentax 645Z images imported into Capture One, you will find out once you do, that PhaseOne not only deliberately blocked 645Z images from importing, but they also no longer assign an ICC color profile that allows you to get a true representation of the colors when you took that image. As I am always using a color calibration target in my workflow, I have gotten used to the quirky way of managing color in C1, but others probably never saw the need for it. I received many requests from CaptureFix users as to how they can adjust the color, or if I could provide my ICC profiles to them. Although I have a base profile, I usually shoot a target and make adjustments where necessary. As this is really no rocket science I felt the need to make a quick video showing how you can easily make those adjustments yourself going forward. I will also include my basic color profile and settings in this post, free for you to download and use. Keep in mind that these are “close enough” starting points. They are not meant to be perfect, but they will get you close to where you probably would want to start or be at with your adjustments. The below video was made using C1 8.1.1 and files modified with CaptureFix.

645Z CaptureFix for Capture one (8.1.1) and ICC/Color calibration

Watch this video on YouTube.

As you probably noticed, there are several ways to apply the color correction you made. You can apply it as a default ICC profile for the 645Z (in the ICC tab) once saved as an ICC profile, or you can simply apply it upon import to each file as a user color preset. I think the ICC approach may be easier, if you want to use your (or my) profile as a base from where you will make additional adjustments as needed. On OSX make sure to put the ICC profile into ~/Library/colorsync/profiles/ so that C1 is able to find it. As always, this is provided free and as is. Make sure to reach out and let me know if you have other issues or found the perfect ICC you would like to share with me. Enjoy!

CaptureFix C1 645Z ICC/Color Profile

This package includes both the color profile, as well as the ICC profile for using 645z images in Capture One

Download Now!256 Downloads

 

 

645Z CaptureFix and Color Profiles

Why I shoot with the RICOH Pentax 645Z

There are many reasons for how we pick our cameras: sensor resolution, max ISO, image quality, max. shutter speed, handling, weight, and so on. The list is probably just as long as the number of different models available today. Some reasoning is rational, some pure emotion. I have shot with pretty much any manufacturer over the years, and to what it comes down for me, is how the camera feels, when I use it. I believe that no camera is able to replace creativity and an artist’s vision, no matter how spec’d out it is. You can create amazing images with your iPhone, or any other camera for that matter, so for me, it has always been about the experience: the camera needs to become a natural extension of my creative vision.

Shooting with the Pentax 645Z Medium Format Camera

That said, there are many cameras that can do that, but none of them offers the resolution and pixel sharpness I get from my 645Z. I shot with Hasselblad, I shot with PhaseOne, and the handling on the 645Z is very close to a DSLR, which cannot be said for any model made by the other medium format guys. Autofocus is quick, and works well. 3fps is nothing to call home about when compared to a DSLR, but then again, this is not your average DSLR. For a medium format camera, 3FPS is very impressive, and it allows me to have a workflow similar to what I would have with a full frame DSLR.

The 645Z is not perfect. There are a bunch of things I wish they would have done differently, but there is hope. RICOH has been very responsive to feedback, and I believe that they are genuinely interested in turning the medium format market upside-down. The 645z is an almost perfect start, and with the exciting things happening around the 645 system now and in the future, for me, this is the system I can trust and enjoy working with. Your opinion and workflow may be different, and that’s OK. The 645Z is not for everyone, and it doesn’t pretend to be. But if you know its strength, this is definitely the most powerful medium format tool out there today. And yes, tethering is right around the corner

Why I shoot with the RICOH Pentax 645Z

Field of View Comparison between the 28-45mm f/4.5 and the 25mm f/4.0

Quick Comparison

Some of you are probably curious to find out whether the 28-45mm ED AW SR is able to replace the 25mm f/4.0 at 28mm. 3mm focal length reduction isn’t really a lot, especially if you consider that you gain a total of 20mm zoom range, making this a much more versatile wide to ultra-wide lens for the Pentax 645 system. Image quality wise (non scientific just by looking at the crops), the 28-45mm offers greater center sharpness (and resolution) at 28mm, whereas the 25mm seems to have a slight advantage as you go look further towards the edges of the frame. YMMV.

This is taken with the 25mm at f/9, 125th/sec.

This is taken with the 28-45 at f/9, 125th/sec.

Both images were shot from the same position on a tripod (SR disabled on the 28-45mm). To really get an idea what you will gain (or lose) when shooting with the 25mm or 28-45mm I decided to overlay both images. They are not a perfect fit (because of different distortions), but I am sure you get the idea.

 

Shake Reduction aside, both are heavy lenses, but I feel that at a similar price point, the 28-45mm ED AW SR is a more versatile choice, which also happens to offer better center sharpness. All images shot on a 645z.


Field of View Comparison between the 28-45mm f/4.5 and the 25mm f/4.0